The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the Schwarz Etienne Roma Synergy, featuring a guilloché dial by Kari Voutilainen’s renowned atelier, and the Geometry series, introduced last year with dials in silver or salmon, adorned with hand-guilloché motifs in a deconstructed design. The latter was created by Eric Giroud, a highly respected designer in the Swiss watch industry. The latest Schwarz Etienne watch, the Geometry Cherry, follows the same design principles as last year’s duo but stands out with its striking cherry-red hue, as the name suggests.

The Schwarz Etienne Geometry series comes in a 39mm stainless steel case with a highly polished finish and a relatively slim 11mm profile. The design includes straight, stepped lugs, a large fluted crown, and an exhibition caseback, maintaining the elegant shape seen in the brand’s Roma collection. While the case is crafted for both comfort and visual appeal, the bold, deep red dial with contrasting black details and intricate shifting patterns truly captivates and draws the eye for closer observation.

The vibrant red hue isn’t new to Schwarz Etienne, having previously adorned the unique piece Cherry Red Schwarz Etienne Roma Synergy by Kari Voutilainen and a special edition for the Emirates Watch Club. However, paired with the deconstructed design of the Geometry, it creates an entirely different feel that’s not immediately grasped. The dial, made from a gold base by the Le Locle-based cadranier Metalem, showcases a combination of fluted, azuré, and Clous de Paris hand-guilloché sections in varying sizes and visual depths. These intricate patterns shift in shade depending on the light, creating a very dynamic effect. 

Black sandblasted segments of the minutes track, seemingly scattered across the dial, enhance this sense of constant movement, while the black running seconds sub-dial serves as a focal point, grounding the design. The rhodium-treated brass, lance-shaped hour and minute hands add a touch of order, holding the composition together. The absence of hour indices and the unconventional arrangement of the minutes track make precise time reading somewhat challenging – not due to a lack of minute markers, as they are present and indicate 1- and 5-minute intervals – but because the “broken” dial design is so captivating, it easily distracts from the primary function of telling time.

For its movement, the Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry relies on a micro-rotor and finely decorated in-house automatic calibre ASE 200.02. It operates at 21,600 vibrations/hour and offers 86 hours of autonomy when fully wound. The Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry is worn on a black leather strap with brown leather lining, closed with a branded folding buckle in stainless steel.

Announced as part of the permanent collection, this new Geometry Cherry is priced at CHF 21,350. For more details, please consult www.schwarz-etienne.ch.