The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon

Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, a cornerstone of its Hyper Horology concept, characterised by bold, modern, and technically advanced creations. Among the slew of tourbillon watches introduced by the brand at Watches and Wonders 2024 is the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon. A model with a lot of personality, it embodies the essence of Roger Dubuis’ style and expertise. Yet it offers a (relatively speaking) more restrained style that will likely appeal to a broader audience.

Among the numerous tourbillon watches crafted by Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon stands out for its balanced design – modern and bold, yet not overly so. Constructed from grade 5 titanium and a more complex take on a model launched last year, this sleeker Excalibur Monotourbillon benefits from its lightweight, corrosion- and magnetic-resistant, hypoallergenic properties. It also brings a toned-down monochromatic look (with subtle metallic shades of grey) that often makes an object look sleek and modern. At least, you won’t be surprised that this is what we think here at MONOCHROME.

Measuring 42mm in diameter, the edgy Excalibur case is notable for its distinctive angles, notched bezel, and characteristic triple lugs. This design ensures a strong wrist presence and makes the watch an excellent conversation starter. Despite its bold look, at 42mm in diameter and a bit over 12mm high, its size is relatively modest for a Roger Dubuis timepiece. And it should fit most men’s wrists easily. In addition, the use of lightweight titanium guarantees comfortable wear. With a water-resistance of 100 meters, you’ll be safe for regular use too.

The hand-wound calibre RD512SQ powers the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon. In true RD fashion, this modernist skeleton movement intentionally departs from traditional baroque decorations in favour of a contemporary style and architecture. The components are openworked to reveal a mechanical sculpture of watch parts, shadow, and light. The movement’s structure centres around the flying tourbillon, originally positioned at 7 o’clock, and the barrel, from which bridges radiate to form a star pattern. It also offers a captivating view of all the moving parts, making the passage of time visible. Quite a feast for the eyes.

The large tourbillon cage has 63 components. The lower cage is made of lightweight titanium, and its upper cage is in mirror-polished Cobalt Chrome, which is also non-magnetic and enables the weight of the piece to be reduced by 16%, according to the brand. It forms the characteristic Celtic cross that makes Roger Dubuis’ tourbillon recognizable. The balance ticks at 3Hz. Thanks to its visible mainspring, the movement has a robust 72-hour power reserve.

As we have come to expect from Roger Dubuis, attention has been paid to the finer details and the movement is beautifully finished. Every part of the movement is manufactured and hand-finished according to the demanding criteria of the Poinçon de Genève.

Despite its complex architecture, the watch offers good legibility. The black flange at the periphery features applied markers and is paired with large skeletonised hands. The use of luminescent material helps when in the dark. If you want down-to-the-minute precision, note that the minute track is interrupted by the tourbillon and the printed logo between 11 and 1 o’clock.

The case is matched by a sophisticated titanium bracelet that is nicely integrated. It is finely finished with satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels. The short, articulated links ensure excellent flexibility, which, together with the lightness, provides great wearing comfort. It is fitted with a practical quick-release system and secured to the wrist by a titanium buckle. 

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon is released in a limited edition of 28 pieces – as is often the case for the brand. At CHF 147,500 incl. taxes, it is obviously not for every pocket, but the model impresses in many respects. And even if you are usually not up for expressive designs, I can thoroughly recommend that you go hands-on with the model if you get the chance – if only to check it out in person. 

For more information, please visit www.rogerdubuis.com.