The New Platinum Editions of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB3 SPC

In 2015, one of the great names in 18^th-century watchmaking was resurrected by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807), the Swiss horologist who emigrated to Paris in 1745 and gained fame for his marine chronometers, was granted a second lease of life. Determined to perpetuate the legacy and chronometric credentials of F. Berthoud’s past glories in contemporary watchmaking language, Scheufele’s niche brand has been delighting connoisseurs for a decade. Celebrating its tenth anniversary, Ferdinand Berthoud presents a limited series of its Chronomètre FB3 reference in platinum with salmon-pink or black PVD-coated movements and an optional sprinkling of diamonds.

Launched in 2022, the most distinctive feature of the FB3 is its rare cylindrical balance spring. Used in marine chronometers and inside a 1793 decimal pocket watch made by Ferdinand Berthoud’s nephew, Louis Berthoud, one of the advantages of a cylindrical spring, explained in detail here, is that it develops concentrically, reducing friction on pivots. Extraordinarily difficult to craft and regulate to chronometric standards, the FB3 spent three years in the R&D lab.

Having appeared in gold and titanium, the anniversary editions come in 42.3mm platinum cases with a thickness of 9.43mm. Over 30 hours were required to machine and finish the 57-part case, and more to polish this dense yet highly malleable metal. Like earlier editions, the lugs are screwed to the case and the large 8.5mm crown is engraved with a crisscross pattern. A pronounced domed sapphire crystal protects the dial; there is a crystal pane on the caseback and a wonderful rectangular porthole on the left case flank to enjoy the breathing cylindrical balance spring.

One of the new FB3 models has a black PVD-treated and sandblasted movement and white gold hands; the second has a sandblasted salmon-pink movement and blue CVD-treated gold hands. Both references can be ordered with a sprinkling of diamonds: 48 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 10 on the pin buckle and 18 on the crown.

With its dynamic 3D architecture and mainplate positioned at the heart of the movement, the COSC chronometer-certified calibre FB-SPC can be admired from the front, back and side. The entire regulating organ is arranged vertically on the left side of the dial, each element fixed by a separate bridge for fine adjustments.

At the top is the balance bridge and a spectacular cylindrical balance spring beating in mid-air, the anchor bridge in the middle and the escapement wheel bridge at the bottom. Held in place by a prominent arched bridge at noon, like the one on Berthoud’s decimal pocket watch, is the large barrel with a 72-hour power reserve. To avoid overwinding the mainspring, the barrel has a slipping device.

A rounded and raised peripheral ring for minutes and hours is indicated by the openworked hour and minute hands. Separate sandblasted bridges support the power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock, the central hour and minute hands, the hand corresponding to the small seconds indicator, and the arced bridge at noon for the barrel. The view from the reverse reveals a jigsaw composition of 10 matte sandblasted bridges with a well of light offering a perfect view of the cylindrical hairspring. As you would expect, the finishings are superlative and decidedly contemporary.

Although the alligator strap of the FB3 is usually accompanied by a pin buckle, there is a new 18mm folding clasp with a safety catch and a fine-adjustment mechanism allowing for +/- 3mm modifications. It is available on request in 18k rose or white gold.

The two non-set references are limited editions of 20 pieces each and retail for CHF 158,000 (incl. VAT) with the platinum pin buckle; the diamond-set models are limited to five pieces and retail for CHF 220,000 (incl. VAT) with the diamond-set platinum pin buckle. More information at ferdinandberthoud.ch.