Founded in 2010, Ressence has shown that innovation and out-of-the-box thinking can disrupt a very crowded and established industry. Although known today for its unconventional and innovative oil-filled watches, the general dial layout itself has been consistent with Ressence from the beginning. They use a patented time display with graphical elements within a single co-planar surface that revolve around the dial. Although a conventional Swiss automatic movement runs behind the scenes, an in-house module (the ROCS, for Ressence Orbital Convex System) allows the revolving dial and integrated sub-dials (in lieu of conventional hands) to seamlessly display the time, date and more.
Starting at the beginning in 2011 with the Ressence ZeroSeries (following prototypes in 2010 at BaselWorld), ceramic bearings and lightweight aluminum dial satellites helped prevent the module from consuming too much power reserve. The dial featured a regulator-style layout with separated time elements for hours, minutes and seconds with an AM/PM indicator as well. The base engine was a modified ETA 2824 and a conventional crown controlled the watch. A major change came in 2013 with the Type 3 model that removed the crown and shifted control to the back, while also introducing the first oil-filled mechanical watch in the world. This earned it the Horological Revelation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
The time elements in the Type 3 seemed to float within the sapphire crystal like a high-res digital OLED display. Two separate sealed chambers – dial side with 3.75 mL of oil and an air-filled chamber below with the movement – worked in harmony, connected through a magnetic transmission, to bring a futuristic aesthetic to the established Ressence formula. Not all models have this feature as the Type 1 (with a round or cushion case) and others retain the original all-air design minus the crown.
Type 2 introduces a bit of technology with the eCrown that allows users to stop the mechanical movement with a tap of the crystal to save power when not being worn. There’s more to it, of course, as the electrical components can set/adjust the time, change and store time zones and more. It can even connect to a phone via Bluetooth for comprehensive control of the functions, and the watch can set itself to the proper time even after sitting for weeks. The eCrown is also powered by advanced solar tech, so it’s truly a seamless experience.
Type 5 combines the oil-filled chamber of Type 3 with serious water resistance at 100 metres, allowing light divers to see an ultra-clear display with the anti-reflective, oil-covered dial elements. A special magnetic transmission allows a secure connection between the movement and upper, oil-filled chamber on the Type 3 and Type 5 models. A bellows system, represented on the dial as a temperature gauge, also compensates for the inevitable expansion and contraction of the oil itself in varying conditions.
Type 8 brings a simplified, time-only experience with just hours and minutes, while the controls remain at the case back. It’s the most stripped-down model in the portfolio and as Ressence puts it, “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” It also offers the most affordable entry into the brand. Legibility is paramount on all models and Super-LumiNova plays a prominent role, touching just about every part of the display elements.
Ressence remains an independent brand with headquarters in Antwerp, Belgium and production in Geneva, Switzerland. Founder Benoît Mintiens continues to lead the company that’s proven to be a leader in innovation and design.