The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Combines Micro-Rotor, Integrated Bracelet and Fair Price

While mostly known for its emblematic range of dive watches, known as the Superman (possibly the most famous French watch), Yema has recently worked hard to expand both its collections and, something truly interesting, its manufacturing capacities – with a strong commitment to bringing back French watchmaking, with in-house developed and assembled movements. One of these calibres is the CMM.20 (Calibre Manufacture Morteau) with a micro-rotor architecture, which was first unveiled in a limited edition integrated sports watch, the Wristmaster. With some design and technical upgrades to be discovered, it’s now back and part of the permanent collection as the Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20. 

If the design of this new Yema Wristmaster Slim feels familiar, it’s entirely normal… But we need to get things clear now, in order to avoid confusion. The overall design concept of this collection, with its sporty-chic, integrated feel, was first introduced in 2021 with the accessible Wristmaster Traveller launched on Kickstarter. The brand’s answer to the growing demand for luxury sports watches with integrated bracelet, this watch first came with a classic automatic movement and a sporty dial. As explained by Christopher Bôle, Managing Director and Head of Design of Yema, the design “drew inspiration from two distinct YEMA vintage models dating from the 1960s (for the octagonal case) and the 1980s (for the bezel).” A year later, the Wristmaster came back with a lot of fanfare, not because of its design (still roughly the same) but because it was used as a vessel to introduce the French-made, in-house developed and assembled micro-rotor calibre CMM.20 – which is now available in many other collections, including the Superman, the Navygraf and the Skin Diver.

Then, and slightly confusing, we’ve seen this sporty-chic design again in 2023 with a watch named the Yema Urban Traveller. An accessible, not ultra-slim model, it should have been named Wristmaster, but the brand decided differently. That being said, the model has been recently updated with new dials and has been aptly renamed Wristmaster Traveller. Now back to our topic of the day, the Yema Wristmaster Slim… Which has to be seen as the direct successor to the limited edition Yema Wristmaster Micro-Rotor of 2022. And while these two models share the overall same design formula and the same base movement, there are notable differences to be explored. So let’s move on to that, shall we?

At first sight, you’d think that the new Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 has just transposed the case and movement of the LE model. But, a closer inspection reveals multiple updates, ranging from subtle to obvious. Starting with the case, the overall shape has been retained, with an octagonal middle case that’s asymmetrical and includes a sharper right edge acting as a crown guard. The watch is fairly robust despite its slender proportions, with a screw-down crown, a 100m water-resistance and a screwed caseback.

The most striking design element is, as often in this sporty-chic category, the bezel. Here, it is modelled after Yema’s 1980s Sous-Marine watch and is made from a single block of steel, finished with a vertical brushed top, a polished bevel and a horizontal brushed flank. You’ll note that the 6 notches have been reshaped, and are now sharper. The bezel frames a slightly raised double-domed sapphire crystal. Proportions… Very pleasant at 39mm in diameter, only 9mm in thickness and 43.5mm in length (excluding the first mid-link). In addition, the overall package feels more neatly put together than before with a pleasant feeling of quality.

Next, the most obvious update concerns the dial. Available in 3 colours – golden-yellow, blue and sandy-grey – the dial comes with a new pattern with irregular thin horizontal lines that can be seen, depending on the colour, as sea waves, desert sand ripples, or wind-carved patterns. The motif is paired with a sunray-brushed pattern and stainless steel raised hour markers and hands, both featuring Super-LumiNova – the second hand is fully luminous. A larger applied marker with an Arabic 12 adds a touch of originality.

Underneath the see-through caseback is the Calibre CMM.20. Developed internally together with French watchmaker Olivier Mory, the movement is made from internally produced components or parts that are sourced from Swiss and French suppliers within a range of 70km around Morteau (where Yema has its HQ). It is then assembled, adjusted and tested in-house. The main specificity of this movement is its winding system, as it relies on a micro-rotor (in tungsten, mounted on ball bearings). This allows a movement that’s 3.7mm in thickness despite a solid 70h power reserve. Beating at a 4Hz frequency, it is adjusted to run within a range of -3 /+7 seconds per day. For the occasion of this new Yema Wristmaster Slim, it is presented with a new and more classic decoration, with radiating Geneva stripes and rhodium-plated bridges.

An important part of such sporty-chic steel watches, the bracelet of the Yema Wristmaster Slim has also been upgraded. Measuring 24mm at the lugs, it is brushed on top, polished on the sides with nice bevels, and tapers nicely up to a new butterfly folding clasp. It now includes a convenient yet elegantly integrated micro-adjustment mechanism allowing a 1.5mm to 3mm length adjustment – not something you’ll find often in this price range, and it must be applauded.

Now available for orders, with shipping from December 10th, 2024, the Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Micro-Rotor is a nice, well-proportioned sports watch with integrated design. Considering the movement, the bracelet/clasp and the list of specs, it’s also a rather loaded package considering the retail price of EUR 2,249 or USD 2,249. For more details, please visit Yema.com.