The Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L, the Updated Field Watch
The young French brand's field watch is back with a new dial design and colours.
Despite being a relatively young brand (founded in 2019), Serica already carries a consistent collection of retro-inspired sports watches – field, dive and GMT. A project of Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (both behind French magazine Les Rhabilleurs), all watches are designed to be used and abused with sturdiness, precision and style in mind. Today, the collection that started it all, the brand’s field watch, gets a substantial update, becoming visually more appealing without denying its military origins. It’s time for the new vision of its field chronometer, the Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L.
At Serica, it all started with a classic field watch, the W.W.W, followed by the reference 4512, a slightly redesigned version. The brand’s field watch became thinner and automatic, with updated dials (available in three black designs – California, Denali and Commando). Already a solid step forward in design and overall quality compared to the inaugural models, once again, the reference 6190 is being revamped, updated, and upgraded with the new 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L – a reference to its exploration roots, meaning Mean Sea Level.
Whether you look at the W.W.W, the 4512 or the previous 6190 references, the strong military inspiration can be felt in their non-signed dials and classic designs inspired by military issued watches. Robust and precise, this collection of classic time-only watches with no additional functions (if you want more, then look at the 8315 Traveller’s Watch or the 5303 Dive Watch) is entering a new phase of its life with more refined dials that tone down the military theme… Does this make them less purposeful? Certainly not.
What we’re looking at is a compact, no-nonsense field watch. A classic exploration tool, if you wish. The steel case has a reasonable 37.7mm diameter, with an overall thickness of 10.4mm, crystal included. Lug-to-lug? Also fair, at 46.5mm. On the other hand, the design and finish are less mundane than what they used to be during the early stages of the brand. The twisted lyre-like lugs add depth to the watch, and while most surfaces are brushed, elegant and appealing polished bevels are found on the sides of the case and the step bezel – the latter featuring a vertically brushed surface. The right side is home to a large, easy-to-use crown, and a pronounced domed sapphire crystal protects the dial. Despite its compact proportions and relative thinness, the 6190 Chronomètre is water-resistant to 200 metres. But nothing new here…
What has changed are the dials. As mentioned, the original reference 6190 was exclusively available in black in three classic military layouts. First of all, the new Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L is reintroducing colours, with the return of a white dial and a new option in the shape of a warm, slightly faded grey dial (named Tempest grey) with greenish reflections. All dials are polished with an enamel-like finish, resulting in a strong glossy effect that’s particularly pronounced on the black version. Surprisingly refined and full of depth. Personally, I’ve really enjoyed my time with the white version, but I’m biased and always had a thing for polar white explorer watches.
That’s not the only update made to the dial of the 6190, as it now comes with a new layout. Still unsigned, Serica uses applied makers for the first time in this collection, resulting in more depth and refinement, as well as stronger luminescence. The combination of a triangle, horizontal rectangles and dots makes time reading particularly easy in the dark and also adds a touch of originality. With its elongated markers, the minutes track reconnects this new version with its military origins. And while the broad arrow hands have been untouched, there’s now a lumed lollipop second hand.
The main update of the reference 6190 when it was launched last year was the introduction of a self-winding movement, which has been retained for this M.S.L version. The automatic Soprod M100 (an alternative to ETA and Sellita) inside runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores 42 hours of power reserve. Most importantly, it is presented in a chronometer version, certified by COSC (-4/+6 seconds/day).
The Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L is secured to the wrist by a stainless steel Bonklip bracelet. With its tool-ish look (now with a signed clasp) and its flexibility, the Bonklip bracelet is a fitting option for the 6190, even if I personally have a bit of an issue closing it. Nevertheless, the 20mm lug width opens the door to multiple options, and Serica offers its own sports rubber strap with ribbed end-links for the 6190, too.
Now available for orders from the brand’s website (deliveries September 2024), the new Serica 6190 Chronomètre M.S.L is priced at EUR 1,090 (incl. taxes). Considering the nice execution of the case, the attention to detail on the dials and the COSC certification, it does make for a solid offering. For more details, please visit www.serica-watches.com.