Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The More Compact Zeitwinkel 173°, An Evolution of the Sapphire Dial and Large Date Watch
The calibre ZW0103 returns in a redesigned case, refining the concept introduced by the 273° Saphir Fumé.
Zeitwinkel, founded in 2006, has quietly built a solid reputation among collectors in just two decades with its in-house movements and distinctive use of German silver. One of its defining and, by now, one of the most popular pieces, the 273° Saphir Fumé, introduced in 2016, combined a smoked sapphire dial with the automatic calibre ZW0103, revealing both the movement architecture and the large-date mechanism on the dial side. However, at 42.5mm, it remained a relatively bold proposition, and we all know that nowadays this diameter is considered large even for the sports watch category. The new 173° addresses these concerns, bringing the same concept into a more compact form while preserving its technical identity.
For the new Zeitwinkel 173°, the redesigned stainless steel case with polished and textured finishes and a recessed middle section now measures 39.7mm in diameter, 12.9mm thick (including the domed sapphire crystal) and 48mm lug-to-lug. Compared to the bigger (42.5mm by 13.8mm, 52mm lug-to-lug), more angular 273°, the new case has softer lines and a more rounded profile. The large, 6.7mm fluted crown with a double-o ring seal is positioned at 3 o’clock. The construction with a sapphire crystal caseback looks solid enough, and the overall design still reflects the brand’s instrument-like approach, but not without the fine details. Water resistance is 50m.
As with the original 273°, Zeitwinkel uses sapphire to reveal the upper side of the movement. Two versions are offered: Saphir Fumé, echoing the smoked aesthetic of the original, and Saphir Bleu, a more contemporary, light-reactive interpretation. The dial elements are metallised and grown directly onto the sapphire surface using lithographic techniques (LIGA), maintaining clarity and legibility while allowing a view of the mechanics beneath. The large date remains at 11 o’clock, a signature layout already seen on the 273°, though now seemingly in a cleaner, better-integrated composition, still with the dial-side power reserve indication.
The new Zeitwinkel 173° is powered by the same in-house calibre ZW0103, linking both generations. This automatic movement, previously exclusive to the 273° collection, comprises 387 components and is defined by its patented large-date display and a construction based on untreated German silver plates and bridges (frosted finish on the upper side is available upon request). The material’s warm, champagne-like tone and responsiveness to finishing remain central to the identity of the watch. Operating at 28,800 vibrations/hour and delivering a 72-hour power reserve, the movement is technically solid and visually expressive, with traditional finishing.
By reducing the case size, the brand makes its signature model more accessible, while preserving the mechanical and aesthetic qualities that defined the 273°.
The 173° is offered with multiple strap options (calf leather or caoutchouc, 20mm to 18mm taper), closed with a clasp (pin buckle on request for leather straps) and produced on a made-to-order basis, in line with Zeitwinkel’s small-scale approach. Pricing aligns with the previous model at CHF 21,500 (excluding VAT). For more information, please visit Zeitwinkel.ch.
