The Fresh & New Minase Uruga with Ice Blue Dial

Minase is a Japanese watch brand well known to those who appreciate fine case construction and artisanal finishing. It was founded in 2005 by Kyowa Co., a specialist in precision machining and metalworking since the 1960s. Minase began as a case and bracelet manufacturer before stepping into full watch production. With a strong focus on looks rather than movement innovation, the brand has developed a niche following with its highly architectural designs and impeccable finishing. Models like the 5 Windows and 7 Windows or the round but still angular Divido exemplify this ethos. However, with the Uruga collection, Minase has softened its visual language to offer something more classical, though still unmistakably its own.

The new reference to join the Uruga series is a 42mm model, 10.2mm thick, featuring a stainless steel case, with an on-trend ice blue dial. Its so-called “clamping case structure,” a design inspired by gem-setting techniques, where four angular clamps secure the sapphire crystal in place, is a standout. The brushed clamps contrast with the mirror-polished facets, achieved using the time-intensive Sallaz (a.k.a. Zaratsu) polishing method. The resulting surface finishing is distortion-free, sharp-edged, and rich in visual texture. A slightly domed sapphire crystal, following the curvature of the bezel, adds sophistication to the profile. Water resistance is 50m; a screw-down sapphire caseback held by six screws provides a view of the movement within.

This new edition’s standout feature, the dial features a horizontally embossed pattern inspired by the waves of the Minase River, near the brand’s workshop in Akita Prefecture. The new “ice blue” variant brings a cool and modern tone to the watch, reinforced by the applied, faceted hour markers. The faceted alpha-style hands are both brushed and polished, and a metallic window subtly frames the date at 3 o’clock. While simpler in form than previous Minase creations, the execution remains precise and deliberate.

Inside the Uruga 42mm Minase Uruga is the KT/7002 calibre, based on the ETA 2892 but extensively reworked by Minase. Visible through the caseback, it features perlage on the plates, diamond-polished bevels, blue screws, with a skeletonised rotor. The calibre operates at a 28,800 vibrations/hour frequency, features a stop-seconds function, and offers a 50-hour power reserve.

The Minase Uruga 42mm Automatic Ice Blue Dial is offered on either a textured rubber or hand-stitched leather strap with deployant clasp or a stainless steel bracelet. Pricing starts at USD 5,500 on rubber and leather, USD 7,100 on steel bracelet.

A 31mm version of the Uruga Ice Blue is also available, with an ETA 2671 automatic movement and fitted with diamond-set indices. It’s a more feminine interpretation, but retains the design codes and artisanal touches of its larger sibling. This version is priced at USD 5,200 on rubber strap. More details at minasewatches.com.