The Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” with a Plique-à-Jour Dial

In the past decade, the watch division of Louis Vuitton has been steadily expanding its foothold in haute horlogerie, a journey that commenced with acquiring movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) about ten years ago. La Fabrique des Arts, another esteemed LV atelier within the LFT dedicated to curating metiers d’art, provided expertise and know-how for the latest Vuitton horological offering. It is within this collaborative effort that the exceptional plique-à-jour enamel dial for the latest edition of the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon was meticulously crafted.

When it comes to Louis Vuitton watches, the Tambour collection immediately comes to mind. Streamlined drastically with most of the past references removed, this signature design is now mostly exemplified by the brand’s take on the luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet concept, the new Tambour. However, there’s more to LV watches. Much, much more indeed. Specifically when it comes to haute horlogerie.

Navigating through the brand’s website, you’ll find a conspicuous absence: the exquisite tourbillon-regulated watches encased within the captivating Voyager case. Initially introduced as a host for a no-frills GMT model, the Voyager case has since evolved into a sanctuary exclusively reserved for top-of-the-line complications produced in limited quantities, so the absence is justified. Recall the 2016 Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève,” followed by the 2019 Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon. More recently, the Voyager Skeleton edition emerged, seamlessly integrating Louis Vuitton’s distinctive design language into an unexpectedly minimalist framework. The newest addition is the Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève”, distinguished by the plique-à-jour enamel dial, which deserves special praise, and we are happy to introduce the model.

The 41mm platinum Voyager case is the ideal canvas for this exceptional creation. With an avant-garde silhouette marked by graceful curves and a masterful blend of finishes, it harmonizes seamlessly with the dial, accentuating its beauty and propelling the timepiece to sophistication. This sophistication is underlined by impeccable craftsmanship, as the chosen plique-à-jour enamel technique is renowned for its difficulty not to mention high production costs.

Plique-à-jour, loosely translated as “letting in the daylight,” refers to transparent enamel devoid of backing. The design resembles a stained glass window, featuring a metal outline (frame) filled with various transparent, glass-like enamels of multiple colours. Like cloisonné, plique-à-jour consists of metal partitions or cells with a temporary backing, usually removed through an acid bath. However, the artisans at La Fabrique des Arts opted for a capillary action fill without any support. This technique involves depositing material into open cells through quick and light movements, ensuring even spreading of the enamel without air pockets.

The white gold frame of the new Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-jour dial is made of subtly intertwined V shapes and round openings at 12 and 6 o’clock. It undergoes five to six layers of enamel and an equal number of kiln firings. The process demands around 100 hours of meticulous work to produce just one dial, and the result is truly astonishing. Plique-à-jour imparts a natural translucency reminiscent of that found in nature, creating a mesmerizing play of colour as light passes through the enamel in various shades of blue and grey.

Beneath the metiers d’art dial, shielded by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, the manually wound LV 104 movement emerges. Its open-worked design reveals the flying tourbillon’s distinctive V-shaped cage, completing a full rotation every minute, prominently showcased at 6 o’clock. The blue time dial with signature hands is positioned at 12; the Poinçon de Genève hallmark is at 9, and the LV logo is opposite. This arrangement mirrors the groundbreaking timepiece introduced in 2016, which debuted the Calibre LV 104 developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps.

Comprising 168 components, the LV 104 movement was conceived as a skeleton calibre rather than a modified existing movement. Operating at 21,600 vibrations/hour, it has an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. The prestigious Poinçon de Genève seal certifies that the movement meets rigorous criteria for decorative finishing – all yours to discover through the transparent caseback – and demonstrates exemplary timekeeping.

The New Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-Jour is worn on a navy blue leather strap, closed with a platinum folding buckle. The price is upon request; expect well over EUR 200,000. For more details, please visit louisvuitton.com.