The Lang & Heyne Friedrich II is All About Style and Sophistication

The Lang & Heyne brand debuted in 2002, and since then, it has gained recognition for expertly blending the rich tradition of German fine watchmaking with a modern sensibility. Lang & Heyne timepieces, consistently named after historical figures from the Saxony region, pay tribute to the past while embodying a contemporary vision. The result is a collection of exquisite and beautifully crafted watches produced in limited quantities in their Dresden workshops, ensuring exclusivity. We had the privilege of experiencing the captivating Friedrich II firsthand and even had the chance to compare it with its counterpart, the Friedrich III, which shares similar characteristics but differs in presentation and spirit. While this review isn’t intended to be a comparison, it’s worth noting that owning both would be an extraordinary delight for any enthusiast fortunate enough to do so.

The Lang & Heyne Friedrich II shares its rounded case design and dimensions with the Friedrich III, both measuring 39.2mm in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness. The fully polished case has sapphire crystals front and back, featuring the brand’s signature triple lugs. If you’re not a fan of the short middle lug, Lang & Heyne offers its removal and a range of other customization options. While I would strongly advise against altering the Friedrich III in this way, I believe the Friedrich II might actually benefit from such a modification – I’ll explain this further toward the end of the review.

The onion-shaped fluted crown, with its flat top bearing the brand’s medallion, is elegantly framed by subtle crown guards. Though the crown is not particularly large and only slightly protrudes, it is proportionate to the watch’s rest. One might assume it could cause slight discomfort when wearing the Friedrich II, but surprisingly, it doesn’t.

The Friedrich II dial is exemplary in craftsmanship – sorry if that sounds like a cliché, but it truly is. I’ve always had a soft spot for multi-layered porcelain and enamel dials, and the Friedrich II we handled is a visual delight. Its recessed centre and small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, both slightly overlapping, are beautifully executed in lacquered white enamel. The circular edges of these sunken areas add depth and nicely reflect the small seconds subdial’s markings on the inner flange.

The sporty minute track, marked with dash-like accents and red triangles pointing inward, adds an interesting contrast, while the large Art Deco numerals for the hours bring a classy flair. The spade-tipped hour and minutes hands tie everything together into a cohesive and harmonious design. As always with Lang & Heyne, customization is available, but this particular combination is already perfect. And with the middle lug removed, the Friedrich II in white metal becomes the perfect complement to the gold-cased Friedrich III with its Roman numerals and cathedral hands – the latter being your ultimate dress watch, while the former is an ideal companion for those smart-casual occasions where a jacket is required. 

On the caseback side, both the Friedrich II and Friedrich III reveal the equally captivating sight of the hand-wound Caliber VI. This in-house movement features Lang & Heyne’s signature trigonal bridge, a striking brushed and then gold-plated finish on the bridge and mainplate, and a meticulously hand-engraved balance cock topped with a diamond at the balance. The contrast of the winding system wheels, adorned with a snailed decoration, adds a refined touch.

The blued screws, especially the four prominent ones, stand out beautifully; the engravings on the mainplate are immaculate, just like the polished edges of the plate and bridges. This calibre operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour, offers a power reserve of 55 hours, and has a hacking seconds feature.

The Lang & Heyne Friedrich II is typically paired with an alligator leather strap and a pin buckle. This ideal closure choice allows for easy, unobstructed viewing of the movement in all its classical golden splendour. This duality – the two distinct faces of the Friedrich II – makes owning (and wearing) this watch such a captivating experience. On the movement side, it evokes a sense of respect for the classics; it plays a traditional tune. When looking at the dial, it makes you hum a lively, almost jazzy tune in contrast. Though the collection is named after the King of Prussia Friedrich II (The Serious), the dial, while undoubtedly a serious example of fine craftsmanship, exudes a playful charm. Impressions are certainly subjective, yet it’s hard to deny the watch’s undeniable allure. The price is set at USD 42,700 for the present platinum edition (about 34k dollars in gold). 

For more details, visit lang-und-heyne.de.