The Best on the Back, Six Watches with Drop-Dead Gorgeous Movements

We all love a good watch, that much is obvious. And what constitutes “good” is fairly straightforward in most watches, too. A solid, legible design, attractive details, fine ergonomics and a reliable mechanical movement. But sometimes, you want a bit more. Or a lot more, in the case of these six fine mechanical marvels. Each one shows a devotion to craftsmanship, not only in watchmaking but especially in finishing. In this first in a series of two Buying Guides, we will be lifting the skirt on some of this year’s most beautiful watch movements we’ve seen!

Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3

Entirely made by hand, the Naissance d’Une Montre 3 by Ferdinand Berthoud honours and protects the craft of artisanal watchmaking. From the front, it looks absolutely stunning, with an incredible three-dimensional asymmetrical layout. Around the back, though, it becomes a different story. Still absolutely mesmerising for its finishing, the more symmetrical construction wows with its calmness and attention to detail. The partial windows showing the backside of the fusée-and-chain mechanism, the detailed engraving, the very fine shock absorber that holds the balance staff… we could go on and on! Only 10 will be made (2 watches per year), and it costs CHF 850,000.

For all the details on this horological masterpiece, please check out our in-depth story and video here.

Breguet classique Souscription 2025

The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is not only a highlight in the Maison’s series of celebratory watches, but one of the finest watches of the year by any brand, period. Honouring 250 years of the Breguet watchmaking name, it’s a remarkably subtle watch from the front, with its white Grand Feu enamel dial and single hand. Turn it over, though, and you’re greeted by multiple stepped bridges, heat-blued screws, polished bevels, and a myriad of other textures and finishing techniques. The central ratchet wheel is engraved with Abraham-Louis Breguet’s explanation of the Souscription movement, taken from his advertising brochure. The Classique Souscription 2025 is not limited per se and retails for EUR 52,800.

To learn more, please head over to our detailed hands-on story here.

Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R

Patek Philippe and chronographs are a match made in heaven, and one of the brand’s finest is the 5370 series. This Split-Seconds Chronograph 5370R was one of this year’s showstoppers for numerous reasons. The chocolate-and-cream dial, for instance, looks absolutely amazing against the warm, rose gold exterior. The in-house calibre CHR 29-535 PS is built from 312 individual parts, all meticulously finished by hand. The construction is truly mesmerising, almost looking like a miniature city you could get lost in for days. And it’s not only pretty to look at, as it can split the chronograph seconds on demand through the pusher in the crown. This spectacle doesn’t come cheap, though, as it retails for EUR 286,300.

More details on the wonderful 5370R, in our hands-on story right here.

David Candaux DC12 MaveriK

With the ongoing resurgence of high-end indie watchmaking, we are spoilt for choice when it comes to fine mechanical movements. One of the most impressive new movements we’ve seen is found in the sculptural DC12 MaveriK by David Candaux. It features a double balance wheel construction with a special differential connecting the two. The differential can be seen from the front, while the backside shows the two balance wheels performing their rhythmic dance. The symmetrical and curvaceous C30 calibre, developed and assembled in-house, uses titanium plates and bridges and is finished to perfection by hand. Production is limited, and the price is set at CHF 98,000 excluding taxes.

More details on the fantastic DC12 MaveriK can be found in our hands-on story here.

Petermann Bedat Reference 1825

Another fine example of exquisite movement construction and finishing is Petermann Bédat’s new Reference 1825. Introduced only recently, it follows the path of previous models and is Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat’s take on the classical small seconds dress watch. While the movement might not be the most complex in terms of construction and functionality, it’s finished to an extremely high standard. The most striking element is the openworked, bell-shaped centre bridge, made of steel. The German Silver plates and bridges have very broad Geneva stripes, polished jewel sinks, bevelled edges, and so on. Various elements, such as the screw heads and balance cock, are black polished. Only 200 will be made over a 4-year period, with a price of CHF 75,000.

You can read all the ins and outs in our hands-on story here.

Lang & Heyne Anton Manufakture edition

The Lang & Heyne Anton Manufacture Edition is a masterclass of blending tradition with modernity. The Art Deco-inspired case, complete with scalloped corners, a ribbed caseband, an onion-style crown, and Lang & Heyne’s signature triple-lug construction, sits beautifully on the wrist and houses a truly spectacular movement. The star of the show is the flying tourbillon escapement in the bottom half, partially cutting into the black zirconium oxide ceramic dial. It becomes even more of a spectacle from the back, where individual finger bridges hold not only the tourbillon, but also other elements in the impeccably finished movement. Limited to five pieces only, the price is set at EUR 160,000 excl. VAT.

Learn more about this marvellous watch by Lang & Heyne in our Anton versus Georg comparison here.