The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition collection is the repository of the brand’s most complicated timepieces, featuring multi-component calibres and incredible levels of decoration and finishing. Bringing almost 200 years of expertise to the table, the Master Grande Tradition is home to emblematic complications like the tourbillon, the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar, often combined and all designed, manufactured and assembled in JLC’s manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. The latest member of this elite family is the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985, marrying a sophisticated perpetual calendar with moon phases to a cylindrical flying tourbillon. Although the movement has been used in the past, the case and dial have undergone a refined makeover, and we had the good fortune of spending some time with the pink gold model, a material reserved for JLC’s most complex calibres.

Complexity meets spectacle on board the latest iteration of Calibre 985, and the number of components speaks for itself. The case alone features 80 components, and the 431 parts of the automatic movement, of which 83 belong to the flying tourbillon, are mind-boggling. Before examining the technical wizardry, let’s begin with the redesigned pink gold case. Not a small case by any stretch, as you can see by the photographs taken on Brice’s 16.5cm wrist, the 42mm diameter is coupled with a height of 13.27mm.

Viewed from above, the round case, bezel, and top surfaces of the screwed-in lugs feature a classic polished finish. However, a profile view reveals the complex case construction, with recessed, sandblasted areas surrounding the crown, positioned on a polished, rounded bar with brushed lateral areas. The left side of the case also features sandblasted, hollowed-out areas with a polished bar that echoes the one on the crown side. Secured with four gold screws, the polished caseback features a lower-level brushed bezel that frames the sapphire crystal.

A warm new texture dial

Although the layout is similar to earlier platinum editions, the dial exudes a far more contemporary personality thanks to the different textures and finishings that create contrast and enhance legibility. The gorgeous chestnut brown sunray-brushed dial is executed on two levels; the top level, bearing the calendar functions and the moon phases, covers almost two-thirds of the dial and features applied pink gold indices from 9 to 3 o’clock. Details like the peripheral micro-blasted dark brown minutes track and the micro-blasted rings of the sub-dials add a contemporary touch, but they also provide a contrasting surface for the three-dimensional laser-engraved letters and numerals in relief, which stand out remarkably well on a dial with a lot of information. A hand-bevelled pink gold bridge separates the two dials with an arched area to accommodate the flying tourbillon, which is positioned on the lower dial.

The Complex Calibre 985

The 83-part flying tourbillon, crafted in titanium, weighs just 0.386 grams. Understanding how differently shaped hairsprings oscillate, JLC’s engineers settled on producing a cylindrical hairspring for its Calibre 985. As one of the few manufacturers capable of shaping its own hairsprings, JLC had a distinct advantage in creating a cylindrical one, an invention that dates back to 1776, but which was largely forgotten until today. The ends of the spring coil inwards and beat concentrically in every position, regardless of the amplitude or remaining power reserve. Thanks to the removal of the tourbillon’s upper bridge, you can see the cylindrical balance spring in action. The arc-shaped scale located below the tourbillon aperture indicates the seconds, while the three blue hands mounted on the tourbillon cage measure 20-second intervals as the mechanism completes its 60-second rotation.

The reverse side of the watch showcases the haute horlogerie finishings of the automatic Calibre 985 featuring sunray Côtes de Genève, blued screws, snailing, hand bevelling, and a beautiful openworked 22k gold rotor with a reproduction of the gold medal awarded to Antoine LeCoultre at the 1851 Great Exhibition. Storing up to 45 hours of power reserve, if kept wound, the moon phase remains accurate for up to 122 years.

Availability & Price

The pink gold Master Grande Tradition Calibre showcases the brand’s technical bravado in grand style. The design upgrades and different finishings enhance legibility, while the combination of pink gold and chestnut brown exudes warmth and luxury. In our opinion, this pink gold reference is the most attractive member of the newly released trilogy, which also comes in platinum cases (with or without diamonds on the bezel) as you can see below.

The watch is paired with a handsome brown alligator strap with a double-folding pink gold buckle. This pink gold Master Grande Tradition Calibre 985 is priced at EUR 178,000. More information at jaeger-lecoultre.com