The Surprisingly Bold Bell & Ross BR-X5 Iridescent

Bell & Ross made a name for itself with its aeroplane cockpit instrument-inspired collections, but the brand has never confined itself solely to military aesthetics. In 2019, the Paris-based brand introduced the BR-05 collection, described as its urban range – a stylish series designed for those roaming the concrete jungle. While true to the brand´s signature design and inspirations, these watches were less instrumental-focused and more daily-like oriented. Two years later, the BR-05 line was expanded with an upgraded sportier model, the BR-X5, powered by a Kenissi-manufactured, chronometer-certified movement and featuring a bolder design. Now, Bell & Ross adds a new reference to the collection, the BR-X5 Iridescent, where the spotlight is, once again, on the dial. Let’s see what makes it stand out.

The new BR-X5 Iridescent stainless steel case retains the design and technical features of the series’ inaugural models. It measures 41mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick, and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The multi-layered case construction is designed with a watertight inner container that safeguards movement. The square bezel with its round sapphire crystal, along with the exhibition caseback, is secured to the steel plates forming the top and bottom of the case, fastened by the collection’s signature four screws. The sides of the case, with their hollowed-out architecture, display a mix of polished and brushed finishes, adding depth. Flanked by bold guards for protection, the screw-down crown is finished with the signature “&” logo on the top.

The BR-X5 Iridescent gets its name from the iridescence seen on its dial – a vibrant, rainbow-like effect created by the refraction of light. This phenomenon, where surfaces shift in colour depending on the angle of light or view, is achieved by applying multiple layers of PVD coating. Each layer is carefully sputtered in varying processes, and as light interacts with the microstructures formed by these layers, it creates interference, resulting in a spectrum of colours. The dial transitions from green to blue to violet and, at certain angles, even reveals flashes of orange. Bell & Ross applied the PVD coating over a sunburst-textured surface to amplify this effect.

The dial layout and functionality of the BR-X5 Iridescent remain consistent with earlier BR-X5 models. The wide, sloping inner flange features a mix of numerals and indices marking 5-minute intervals, while a minute track runs along the base of the dial’s periphery. A large, altimeter-inspired date window sits prominently at 3 o’clock, and a power reserve subdial is placed at 9 o’clock for balance. The applied rounded baton hour markers and the rhodium-plated and skeletonized hour and minute hands are filed with white Super-LumiNova X1, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions.

The BR-X5 Iridescent is driven by the Kenissi-manufactured automatic calibre BR-CAL.323, boasting COSC certification and a 5-year guarantee. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it provides an impressive 70-hour power reserve.

The watch is available with either an integrated-style stainless steel bracelet or a white rubber strap, both secured by a folding buckle. It is available at Bell & Ross boutiques and online stores, priced at EUR 8,500 for the rubber strap version and EUR 8,990 for the bracelet. For more details, please visit bellross.com.