Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand

Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of “Go your own way”. With the launch of the revamped Aquis Date collection and the new Oris Divers, we had the perfect opportunity to sit down with Rolf Studer, the brand’s co-CEO, to explore what sets Oris apart.

Xavier Markl, MONOCHROME – Rolf, thanks for having us! What is your background, and how did you end up as co-CEO of Oris?

Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris – I’ve always loved watches and well-made objects. My grandfather had a shipyard where he built wooden boats, so I grew up surrounded by the smell of lacquer and mahogany, with tools everywhere. I’ve always appreciated things made to last, and that’s probably how I found my way into the watch industry. I studied law and spent a few years working at Coca-Cola. In 2006, I was lucky to join Oris, an independent company where individuals have the chance to make a real impact. I started as a regional manager and worked my way up.

This year marks Oris’s 120th anniversary. The brand has such a rich history. What does Oris stand for today?

Oris has always made quality watches within reach of people. Before the quartz crisis, our focus was on producing simple, reliable watches to read the time. But when cheaper quartz watches disrupted the industry, we had to reinvent ourselves while staying true to our DNA. Even now, we focus on offering accessible luxury – watches that everyone can enjoy. We believe in sharing the joy of watches rather than promoting exclusivity. Luxury shouldn’t say, “I am here, and you’ll never be”. Instead, it should bring people together, which is at the heart of Oris’s philosophy.

How does being an independent brand shape Oris?

Independence has defined most of Oris’s history. It’s a core part of who we are. Being independent gives us the freedom to chart our own course. Our motto, “Go your own way”, reflects that spirit. We see ourselves as “citoyens” (citizens). This philosophy guides how we treat people – it’s collaborative, not hierarchical. At Watches and Wonders, for example, while many brands have booths that resemble palaces, we create a piazza – an open square symbolizing exchange and equality. That openness is who we are.

Can you tell us about the management buyout in the 1980s?

Yes, it was led by Dr. Rolf Portmann and Ulrich W. Herzog. Dr. Portmann, our Honorary Chairman, joined Oris in 1956, and his father, who started in the 1920s, was once our Sales Director. Ulrich Herzog joined the company in 1978 and is now our Chairman. Oris is not just managed – it’s owned. There’s a deep sense of continuity here. People either stay with us for a very short time or for many years – like myself. We value entrepreneurial spirit and passion. We don’t want people to just voice opinions; we want them to embody an attitude. That’s how we are able to compete with much larger companies.

How would you describe Oris watches today?

We take watchmaking seriously, but not ourselves. It’s all about the product. Every watch we create must achieve two things: it should make you smile and make sense. Our watches offer practical value, features or complications – like a depth gauge or altimeter – but you won’t find a tourbillon. We aim for functionality with purpose, and that philosophy drives our designs.

What are the iconic Oris models today?

First, there’s the Aquis, which we recently refreshed. We kept its spirit intact but made subtle improvements to enhance it. As Tancredi said: “Everything must change so that everything can stay the same.” The Aquis is a versatile piece – you can wear it during an outdoor weekend or a business meeting.

Then there’s the Divers Sixty-Five, inspired by our first dive watches from 1965. It’s evolved into a classic. We’ve made thoughtful updates: water resistance increased from 100m to 200m, a ceramic top ring replaces the aluminium one, and the case proportions are refined. These kinds of details matter because our customers are watch enthusiasts – they know quality and expect value.

Finally, the Big Crown collection, with roots in the 1930s, remains a hallmark. It features our signature pointer date complication. One of my favourite pieces is the Big Crown Caliber 473, a hand-wound pointer date with a 5-day power reserve. It even has a power reserve indicator on the case back and comes with a 10-year warranty. It’s a perfect example of what we aim to do – honouring our heritage while incorporating modern craftsmanship. And it has a baby blue dial, which makes me smile every time I see it. I hope others feel the same.

Oris has developed its own calibres in recent years. Can you tell us more about that?

Of course. In 2014, we introduced the Caliber 110 for our 110th anniversary. It’s a hand-wound movement with a non-linear 10-day power reserve and a power reserve indicator. That was followed by the Caliber 112 with a moon phase and the Caliber 113 with a pointer week function.

In 2020, we then launched our automatic movement, but we didn’t want to just introduce another standard automatic calibre. We aimed for something special: a 5-day power reserve, 10-year service intervals, and anti-magnetic properties. It’s been very well received. We’ve expanded the range with versions like the Caliber 401 (small seconds) and the Caliber 403 (pointer date and small seconds). The Caliber 473, which I mentioned earlier, adds hand-winding with a power reserve indicator on the case back.

And then there are the Caliber 733 (editor’s note: the Oris name for the Sellita SW200-1) and the Caliber 751 and Oris’ own complications such as the pointer date Caliber 754. These are the pillars of our movement portfolio.

How does Oris manage its distribution?

We have around 2,000 points of sale worldwide, along with 30 boutiques and an e-shop. We want to be present wherever our customers are. E-commerce and boutiques are growing, but multi-brand stores remain essential. As a watch enthusiast myself, I enjoy visiting stores where I can compare brands and get neutral advice. There, you can compare watches and confront yourself with others. We also have 20 subsidiaries covering different regions, while we maintain long-term relationships with key distributors. For us, it’s crucial to have a well-balanced global presence – this allows us to manage risks and make long-term decisions.

A final word on marketing?

Our reputation has grown organically, thanks to the watch community. Social media has given enthusiasts a platform to share their passion, and we’ve benefited from their support in ways we couldn’t have achieved on our own. We feel part of this “watch” community, and their trust means a lot to us.

Sustainability is also important to us. As an independent brand, we take responsibility beyond the walls of Oris. We publish sustainability reports, reduce emissions, and aim for tangible results. One project I’m proud of is our collaboration with Yusra Mardini, whose story is told in The Swimmers. Many brands might shy away from a story about a refugee, but it’s exactly the kind of narrative that resonates with Oris. 

We’re not here to preach, though. We want to inspire people to make thoughtful choices. Our partnerships reflect this spirit as well. From cricket to French football (LFP), we engage with communities and promote teamwork. At Oris, it’s all about doing things together and being part of something bigger.

For more information, please visit www.oris.ch.