The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end artisanal hand-finishing. Following the Ornament collection and the RAW Ornament that introduced the Horlogerie Brut concept, Holthinrichs released in 2024 a slightly more reasonable collection named Signature Ornament, bringing its unique sense of design to a wider audience. But some things shouldn’t be forgotten, and the brand’s latest creation, the Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24, made in collaboration with The Dial Artist, goes back to expressive looks and 3D printed cases. 

A new and distinctive design language, a more accessible watch altogether and a case made using traditional manufacturing process, the Signature Ornament collection was Michiel Holthinrichs’ vision for his entry-level watch. Michiel had to make some concessions. First of all, the cases were not 3D-printed anymore (well, at least for the classic versions), and the movement was outsourced. That said, no compromises were made on the design. The Signature Series was still radically different, original and expressive. However, alongside the classic editions – either with a frosted dial or a Delft Blue ceramic dial – Holthinrichs also presented a sub-collection named Signature LAB… And that one, while being almost identical in design, retained what made the brand so special, a 3D-printed grade 5 titanium case, combined with some of the most architectural lugs we’ve seen in years. Typical of Holthinrichs’ Horlogerie Brut concept.

A truly special, highly expressive case

The LAB Series is a special branch within the model line that represents the brand’s laboratory of innovation and far-reaching experimental extravagance. Following the first LAB model we’ve covered here, Holthinrichs now introduces a second iteration, the Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24, which coincides with the opening of its new atelier location, the former national armoury building of the Netherlands, situated in the historical city centre of Delft.

When talking about this new Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24, we have to start with the case. Measuring a mere 38.5mm in diameter and 9.85mm in thickness, the case might be fairly compact, but it certainly makes an impression (to say the least…) The overall shape follows the design language created for the Signature Ornament series, with sculptural yet fluid lug elements framing the case body, showing impressive curves and twists inspired by architecture and classic car design (two worlds that are dear to Michiel Holthinrichs). Except that for this new member of the LAB Series, the case isn’t CNC-machined. It is, as a watch by Holthinrichs should be, 3D printed.

The case is crafted using high-end selective laser melting, followed by precise milling and extensive hand-finishing. Each print run is limited to 45 cases per build plate, taking up to 48 hours to complete. Benefitting from the high precision of this process, Holthinrichs gave the LAB Series its own lugs, as thin as possible, openworked and almost floating around the case container. This also allows for a reduced weight for greater comfort, a curved caseback to improve wrist position, and a unique design that almost defies logic. The case is then partially finished and partially left untouched, revealing raw 3D-printed textures with hand-decorated details.

A dial that combines patina and gold

The dial of the Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 is as expressive as the case, and also plays on conventions to combine raw, almost industrial touches with hand-finished parts and high-end materials. The dial starts its life in Delft and is first milled from a slice of brass. The blank is then carved to achieve its strong texture and brought to its distinctive aesthetic through a multi-stage forced patina process using electrolysis and heat treatment. This forms a robust copper oxide layer that results in a unique, deep, natural but uneven green colour.

The dial then travels to Scotland to Chris Alexander, a.k.a. The Dial Artist, where he hand-applies gold leaf using a refined adhesion process. Each gold layer is unique, just like the patina of the dial underneath, making each dial of the LAB Series unique. Finally, the dial is returned to Delft for assembly, where it is paired with bevelled and brushed openworked hands and an inner flange that includes hour markers, which seem to float above the dial. Just like the case, the dial is a great example of the Horlogerie Brut concept, which combines natural materials and textures, such as green copper oxide and gold leaf, with great attention to detail on some elements of the dial.

A simple movement with personality

One of the concessions that Holthinrichs had to make in order to offer the Signature Ornament collection at a more accessible price was to use a simpler and less decorated movement than usually found in the Ornament series. But it’s not because inside you’ll find a Sellita SW300 (a robust movement, nevertheless) that there isn’t something special to see through the caseback. Indeed, the Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 features a unique patinated rotor that mirrors the spirit of the dial. Produced in-house, it features a solid patina layer derived from a proprietary acid heat treatment process. The tungsten weight underneath is scraped and heat-treated to achieve subtle blue and purple tones.

Availability & Price

Worn on an equally special strap made of cognac-toned rooster leg leather with its own 3D-printed titanium buckle, the Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 is a limited edition of 79 pieces, a nod to gold (Au), whose atomic number is 79 on the periodic table. The first deliveries are expected before the end of 2025, and the watch is priced at EUR 5,900 (excl. taxes).

For more details, please visit holthinrichswatches.com.