Serica Gets Dressy and Original with the Shaped Parade Reference 1174
Moving away from its usual instrument zone, the French brand goes unconventional and dressy.
In over 100 years of wristwatch making, almost everything has been done. And well done for most of it. Reinventing yourself in a crowded market isn’t easy, even for a young brand like Serica. For five years – its entire life – the brand has been focusing on producing (quite appealing) retro-styled instrument watches. Imagine snowy peaks, scuba gear, adventurous fields and multiple time zones. And it’s been quite a success. The next step in the brand’s adventure is to go dressy. Talk about a drastic change of strategy! But how can Serica offer something unique and original in a context where everything has already been done? The brand’s answer to this question is named the Parade Reference 1174, Serica’s first shaped and elegant dress watch.
After five years of developing instruments for the most demanding environments, Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (the founders) have decided to turn all their attention to a drastically different segment of the industry: the elegant dress watch. One of the main advantages of the dress watch is that it allows far more uniqueness and unconventionality than tool watches, where design codes are far more strictly defined by specific needs – a rotating bezel, legibility in most conditions, water-resistance to superior levels… These stringent needs have an impact on the shape of instrument watches, where being original or unusual can be difficult. With a dress watch, the design process is freer.
With Parade, Serica has taken an unconventional path and created a polarizing watch. Shaped watches are in vogue currently, and this new Reference 1174 (more on the reason behind this name in a few) plays on the trend with a shape that’s not the most common of all, the ellipse or the “stadium” as they like to call it. A stadium-shaped watch? That is a pretty novel way to call it. There are, of course, several examples of elliptical watches on the market – one of them, the most famous probably, is even named after this shape, and there’s also the Baignoire from Cartier – but it remains less traditional than a square or rectangular watch, yet less disruptive than a Crash or a (Re)master02.
While adding an elegant and unique touch to its collection with this “stadium” watch, the brand nevertheless retains what has made it who they are: Parade is a Serica at heart, being an automatic, waterproof and reliable wristwatch made for everyday life. So, let’s start with the case. As said, it has an unconventional shape that’s between the oval, the stadium and, somehow, an aircraft window – at least for the bezel. The central case is a bit more complex, with symmetrical lateral elements, one of them acting as a crown guard. While the bezel is curved and soft, there’s a clear contrast with the central case, which features more angular lines. A look at the profile of the watch also reveals a series of steps, adding to the watch’s dynamism.
The Serica Parade, however, makes an elegant statement with its proportions; it has a 35mm width, a very compact 41mm length (no lugs) and a pleasing 8.6mm thickness – and that, despite featuring an automatic movement and being water-resistant to 100m. Bravo to the team for that, as it shows that a self-winding and waterproof watch CAN be thin when conceived cleverly. The case is built using a sandwich construction with back screws passing through the entire case and housed inside the bezel, increasing the compression of all O-ring gaskets. The back is made of solid steel.
The case also retains a slight sporty touch in the finishes, with straight brushed surfaces and polished bevels, as well as a certain heft on the wrist. Not only does this bring a certain reassurance regarding the robustness of the watch, but it also participates in the perceived quality of the Parade. Regarding the Reference 1174 we mentioned before… it corresponds to the ratio (1.174) between the width and the length. On the wrist, the watch is comfortable, compact, and elegant, with a distinctive look that’s not ostentatious, even in this bright golden colour.
Speaking of which, the dial – available in this brass-gold tone but also a more classic black version – is sleek yet detailed. The Serica Parade keeps things relaxed and quiet, with a time-only display (hours and minutes) – and a deliberate choice of not displaying the seconds, as befits a dress watch. The base of the dial is engraved with S-shaped curved lines, again adding a discreet dynamism to the watch. The domed polished hands are paired with fine spherical hour markers. The combination of these lines with the sunray-brushed finish of the dial is also rather appealing, playing a lot with ambient light.
Inside the case, the Serica Parade Reference 1174 keeps things simple with an automatic movement made by Soprod, the calibre M100. This alternative to the ETA 2824 beats at 4Hz and stores 42 hours of power reserve. It also allows for controlled costs. The Parade comes with a sleek, grained leather strap, which is surprisingly thin (18mm at the lugs, 14mm at the buckle). The pin buckle is a thing of beauty, too, with its elliptical “stadium” shape echoing the case. Small detail, but one that matters.
All in all, the Serica Parade Reference 1174 is a striking watch with a well-balanced mix of elegance and originality. It feels different and has personality – some will love it, some less… but being conventional isn’t what makes you stand out from the crowd. There’s a refreshing design intention, overall quality and attention to detail that is appealing. Now available from the brand’s website, the Serica Parade retails for EUR 1,490. More details at www.serica-watches.com.
4 responses
Unfortunately, I got fooled into becoming an early adopter of serica’s first offering, and the watch never again got wrist time after one week of wear. The watch performed poorly, the design was flawed, and attempts to resolve the problem were met with silence. Obviously, I have never patronized them again, and the old saying, “buyer beware” applies to these chuckleheads, especially with a “new” watch release from them.
Wow, that looks really cheap and ugly to boot. {That’s a No from me, by the way.}
The Soprod Newton movement that is in this timepiece is not related to the Soprod M100. The M100 is a much more refined and thinner movement that is based on the Seiko 4L25 which is a very nice caliber that was used sparingly in high end Seiko offerings and is being made in Switzerland by Soprod now.
@CW – Indeed, you are completely right. It’s been corected now.