The New, Retro-Styled Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer Collection

Since its debut in 2005, Carl F. Bucherer‘s bold and modern TravelTec model has been a cornerstone of the brand’s lineup, celebrated for its triple time zone complication that has become a defining feature of its identity. This bold, functional, and robust 46mm timepiece was the brand’s go-to traveller’s watch for nearly two decades. However, this year marks a new chapter with the introduction of the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer, a more straightforward yet character-filled offering for those ready to hop time zones in the 1950s style, with a twin-crown worldtime style that is there to please vintage lovers. 

While people happily explored the world before and after it was divided into 24 time zones since the 1880s, Louis Cottier’s brilliant 1931 invention revolutionized how travellers kept track of time globally. Cottier’s ingenious design allowed for the simultaneous display of time across different locations in 24 time zones – a concept still central to many modern world timers. In this system, location names circle the dial’s periphery above an inner 24-hour ring that turns counterclockwise. As the ring rotates, it synchronizes the times in all time zones, while the watch hands show the local time for the city positioned at 12 o’clock. In 1953, Cottier introduced a practical two-crown system, with a second crown at 9 o’clock to set the local time via a rotating disc, first utilized by Patek and the superb reference 2523. 

Above: vintage 1950s model on the left, new Heritage Worldtimer on the right – The two-crown design was the cornerstone of a 1950s Bucherer watch powered by the hand-wound Derby 7510 movement, and, as you might have guessed, that vintage Bucherer world timer with a case construction that employed a straightforward gear train to rotate the city disc via the crown at 9 o’clock inspired the latest addition to the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage series – the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer.

At launch, the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer series (which was teased by a Hodinkee limited series) includes three references: one in a limited-edition rose gold case and two in stainless steel that will join the permanent collection. All references share the 30m water-resistance rating and case dimensions, measuring 39mm in diameter and a surprisingly pleasant 10.25mm thickness, with a double-domed sapphire crystal over the dial. The display caseback, secured by four screws to the lugs, reveals the movement inside. The fluted crown with a polished convex top at 3 o’clock is used for winding and setting the time, while the crown at 9 o’clock operates the classic city ring. The case is polished, with a brushed finish on the middle section, and overall, it resembles the vintage timepiece that served as its inspiration.

The rose gold Heritage Worldtimer features a dial with the sunray-brushed silver central part and engraved, rose gold-plated hour indices. Surrounding this section is a matte silver outer ring for the 24-hour indication, paired with a matte rhodium city ring displaying global locations. The stainless steel versions offer two options: one with a sunray-brushed silver dial, engraved silver markings, a matte silver 24-hour outer ring, and a matte rhodium city ring, or a version with a black dial, rhodium-plated indices and matching black rings for both the 24-hour indication and locations.

The slim, baton-shaped hour and minute hands are plated in either rose gold or rhodium. All design elements pay homage to the original 1950s timepiece, with a few modern updates. The typeface of the city ring retains a vintage charm, but some location names have been updated to reflect contemporary sensitivities. The classic Bucherer logo has been replaced with the new Carl F. Bucherer Lucerne 1888 insignia. The jewel count has been increased from 17 to 33, and the “waterproof” marking has been replaced with “chronometer”, elevating the watch’s status as a refined, modern homage.

To learn the time in the second time zone, rotate the city ring using the 9 o’clock crown so that your location mark aligns with the hour in your present position on the 24-hour ring. The 24-hour ring will indicate an hour in any location you wish to check. While the watch doesn’t consider daylight saving time or time zones outside the standard 24, this minor limitation is easily overlooked – it’s the vintage charm and timeless appeal that make the Heritage Worldtimer such an attractive piece.

Vintage in inspiration and feel, this new CFB Heritage Worldtimer is, however, driven by the modern peripheral automatic movement (the brand’s speciality), the CFB A2020, on full display through the exhibition caseback. This COSC-certified chronometer features a peripheral rotor, allowing for an unobstructed view of the movement. The angular bridges are beautifully decorated with Côtes de Genève, while their polished straight edges catch the light. The circular-grained wheels and the meticulously polished jewel and screw sinks further enhance the movement’s elegance. Equipped with a free-sprung balance for greater precision, the balance wheel features small weights on each spoke to adjust the inertia. The calibre provides a 55-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations/hour.

For the straps, Carl F. Bucherer offers a black textile made of wool with a rose gold pin buckle for the limited edition of 88 rose gold-cased Heritage Worldtimers. For those opting for the stainless steel variants, there are two choices: a black textile strap with a stainless steel pin lock folding clasp or a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. All options feature a quick-release system for added convenience. Prices are EUR 14,800 for the limited rose gold edition, EUR 7,500 for the steel model on a strap, and EUR 7,900 for the steel version with a bracelet – I wouldn’t call this accessible, but looking at the whole package, it feels fairly priced. 

For more details, please visit carl-f-bucherer.com.