Grand Seiko Recreates the Hi-Beat 45GS with the new SLGW004 and SLGW005

In 2013, to celebrate 100 years of watchmaking for the Seiko group, Grand Seiko released a limited reissue of the iconic 44GS – 700 pieces for the stainless steel version (SBGW047) and 70 pieces each for the white, yellow, and rose gold versions (SBGW043, SBGW044, SBGW046). This reissue perfectly recreated the classic look and underscored the model’s enduring significance. With the introduction of the new references SLGW004 and SLGW005, Grand Seiko is spotlighting the 45GS (4520-8000), marking its importance as a model that embodies the brand’s distinctive case and dial design codes and showcases its expertise in high-frequency movement development. These elements have always been central to Grand Seiko, and it fits that the brand continues to honour the watch that combined them so successfully. And now, a remarkable example of Japanese watchmaking from the 1960s, is finally receiving the attention it deserves with a modernized model that features a long-forgotten double-signed dial (Seiko and Grand Seiko). 

Background

The 45GS is a remarkable Grand Seiko model released in 1968, just a year after the iconic 44GS, a turning point for the brand, which showcased the new design philosophy according to the design codes established by Taro Tanaka, the brand’s visionary designer, in 1962, known as the “Grammar of Design.” These standards dictated the aesthetic of every visible component – case and dial – of all future Grand Seiko creations, focusing on maximizing the interplay of light, reflection, and shadow to enhance beauty and legibility. The 45GS was a perfect embodiment of this Grammar of Design principles, yet what truly distinguished the 45GS was its manually-wound hi-beat movement, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour – superior in performance to the 44GS’s calibre 4420B, which ran at 18,000 vibrations per hour. This made the Daini Seikosha-made 45GS the first hand-wound hi-beat timepiece in the Grand Seiko lineup, alongside the self-winding hi-beat calibre of the 61GS introduced by Suwa Seikosha the same year. 

Produced by Daini Seikosha until 1973, the 45GS came in several variations, including models powered by the no-date calibre 4520, the time-and-date calibre 4522 with an instantaneous date feed and quick-set feature, and the Very Fine Adjusted calibre 4580. All these elegant and classic-looking calibres featured a full balance bridge, quick adjustment, and hacking seconds, operating at a high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour).

At launch in 1968, the 45GS reference 4520-8000 was presented in stainless steel and yellow gold-cap cases, and this is the attire Grand Seiko has chosen for the operation re-creation. We gladly present two faithful to the original 4520-8000 design variants, the SLGW005 in steel and SLGW004 in yellow gold, equipped with the recently introduced 9SA4 movement, showcasing Grand Seiko’s evolution in high-precision watchmaking.

The new SLGW004 and SLGW005

Both new references, the Grand Seiko SLGW004 and SLGW005, are exceptionally elegant yet highly practical in appearance, demonstrating that Tanaka’s design philosophy has truly stood the test of time. The case dimensions have been slightly increased from the original, with the new models measuring 38.8mm in diameter, up from 36.5mm, and 10.4mm in thickness. The watch’s sharp facets and alternating finishes provide a delightful visual experience from different angles, especially when viewed from the side. The highly polished surfaces, the polished bezel holding the box-shaped sapphire crystal, the curved lines, and the slightly recessed GS-signed crown… all these classic Grand Seiko Style elements are present, making these watches a joy to behold.

And to wear, too. The dimensions and proportions are perfectly suited for this kind of watch; it feels comfortable on the wrist. Both the stainless steel and yellow gold versions exude a discreet elegance, offering a sense of satisfaction to those who appreciate fine craftsmanship. With just a subtle turn of the wrist, these timepieces are ready to showcase their mesmerizing play of light, as customary with the Grand Seiko creations.

The visual appeal continues with the dial, offered in either flawless white opaline or a creamy finish with gold indices, hands, and applied logos for the gold version. The minute track is sharp, while the diamond-cut, faceted polished indices and classic Seiko hands pay homage to the originals. Like the 1968 reference 45GS, the new Grand Seiko SLGW004 and SLGW005 editions feature the Seiko logo applique below the distinctive double index at 12 o’clock – something that hasn’t been seen in the collection since 2017, when Grand Seiko became independent from Seiko.

You’ll find the GS logo, the “Hi-Beat” and “36000” designations at the six o’clock position, and the Daini Seikosha factory lightning bolt logo. Interestingly, the 44GS series in Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection, which honours the original 1967 model, no longer features the double-signed dials. The return of this detail in the new models will surely resonate with collectors.

As mentioned earlier, the new Grand Seiko SLGW004 and SLGW005 models are powered by the latest manually-wound 9SA4 movement – the brand’s first hand-wound 5Hz calibre in 50 years, introduced earlier this year with the SLGW002 and SLGW003 models – which can be admired through the display caseback – a change from the original’s solid caseback with a gold medallion, but indeed a welcome update. This hi-beat calibre, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, is based on Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 automatic movement; it retains the brand’s Dual Impulse Escapement and comes with a new manual-winding system. It offers impressive performance, with an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day and an 80-hour power reserve, thanks to its twin-barrel architecture. A power reserve indicator is visible on the movement side, marked by a small blued hand.

The movement is also beautifully decorated, featuring elegant thin stripes, perlage on the mainplate, bevelled bridges, golden engravings, and a finely finished ratchet wheel. A unique detail is the movement’s click, located at 6 o’clock on the movement side, shaped like a wagtail bird – a tribute to the bird native to the area where the GS Studio Shizukuishi manufacture is located. 

Availability & Price

The new Grand Seiko SLGW004 and SLGW005 models come on brown or black crocodile straps with buckles in either gold or steel to match the case material. Production is limited to just 200 pieces in yellow gold and 1,200 pieces in stainless steel, priced respectively at EUR 32,000 and EUR 10,400. Available from November 2024, the yellow gold SLGW004 will be exclusive to Grand Seiko boutiques, while the stainless steel SLGW005 can also be found at select retail partners worldwide.

For more details, please visit www.grand-seiko.com.