The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions

Presented in 1975, the Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s proposal of a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, a round dial with an octagonal bezel, a tonneau-shaped case and a quartz movement. Produced three years after the Royal Oak but well before the Nautilus, the Laureato resurfaced in 2016 with limited editions followed by serial production models in 2017. Now the brand’s breadwinner, two Laureato models have been selected to celebrate the 160^th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Girard Perregaux and Japan. Limited to 100 pieces each, the Laureato 42mm time-and-date model has an indigo blue or aiiro Grand Feu enamel dial, and the Laureato Chronograph flaunts an indigo blue Clous de Paris dial.

In 1860, François Perregaux (Constant Girard’s brother-in-law) set up an office in Yokohama, making Girard-Perregaux the first Swiss watch company in Japan. Since Japan did not use the same timekeeping system as Europe, GP’s first exports were considered curiosities. However, with the advent of Japan’s railway network in 1873, the country adopted Western time measurement, and GP’s exports rose significantly.

The indigo blue colour chosen for the dials holds special significance in Japan, where it is known as aiiro. Production of aiiro dye, extracted from the Japanese indigo plant, was prevalent in the 16^th century and considered a ‘winning colour’.

Laureato 42mm Aiiro

The classic time-and-date Laureato in a 42mm steel case with a height of 10.68mm is revisited with a stunning indigo blue Grand Feu dial. Like other stainless steel Laureatos, the architecture of the 100m water-resistant case is highlighted with a mix of satin-brushed and polished finishings. The tonneau-shaped case features a horizontal brushed surface with bevelled edges, which continues down the integrated bracelet with its brightly polished central links. The octagonal bezel, which sits on top of a polished circular plinth, reveals a circular brushed finish.

As a celebratory piece, the silver dial base is first decorated with a hand-guilloché sunray motif before an enameller executes the complicated Grand Feu enamel technique. Once the indigo blue shade has been concocted, the powder is dusted on the engraved disc and fired at 800°C anywhere between 5 to 10 times.

The sapphire caseback reveals GP’s in-house automatic calibre GP1800, a 30mm movement with a pink gold rotor decorated with circular Côtes de Genève. Beating at 28,800vph, the movement delivers a power reserve of 54 hours.

Quick facts: 42mm x 10.68mm – stainless steel, satin-finished and polished – sapphire crystals front and back – 100m water-resistant – indigo blue Grand Feu enamel dial with sunray guilloché pattern – applied rhodium-plated indices – rhodium-plated baton hands – date window at 3 o’clock – in-house calibre GP01800-1730 – automatic – 28,800vph – 54h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds and date – integrated steel bracelet – ref. 81010-11-3310-1GM – limited edition of 100 pieces – JPY 2,585,000

Laureato Chronograph 42mm Aiiro

The Laureato Chronograph joined the collection in 2019 and appeared in titanium earlier this year, an indispensable complication for a luxury sports watch family. To mark the occasion, GP has selected the 42mm diameter Chronograph with a lightweight but resilient grade 5 titanium case with a mix of brightly polished and satin-finished surfaces. Continuing the signature shape of the bezel, the screw-down crown and screwed pushers are also octagonal.

The Clous de Paris pattern on the dial is now treated to a lovely indigo blue colour with contrasting black sub-dials and flange. The sub-dials for the small seconds and the chronograph have circular snailing and white printing. Tying in everything is the raised minutes track with applied indices with green emission luminescent inserts matching the central hour and minute hands. The date window is tucked in at 4:30.

Inside the case is the manufacture calibre GP03300-0141 automatic, a variation of the venerable GP3000, which has been ticking since 1994 and is well known for its slim height of 6.5mm. It beats at 28,800vph and has a 46-hour power reserve. This modular movement is well decorated, but in this case, the back has no sapphire glass.

Quick facts: 42mm x 12.01mm – titanium, satin-finished and polished – sapphire crystal over dial, screw-down caseback – 100m water-resistant – indigo blue Clous de Paris dial with black snailed sub-dials – applied indices with luminescent material  – baton hands with luminescent material – date window at 4:30 – in-house calibre GP03300-0141– automatic with chronograph module – 28,800vph – 46h power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph  – integrated titanium bracelet – ref. 81020-21-3311-1GM – limited edition of 100 pieces – JPY 2,805,000