Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Sharply Dressed Atelier Wen Ancestra (or Jiao) Makes a Lasting Impression (Incl. Video)
Blending traditional Chinese craftsmanships with European watchmaking tech, the Ancestra, or Jiao is a strong departure from previous collections.
Are you ready to immerse yourself in Chinese culture and tradition? Atelier Wen was founded in 2018 by two young Frenchmen looking to remove the stigma of Chinese watches being cheap and poorly made. The inaugural collection captured the essence of traditional Chinese porcelain, but it wasn’t until the release of acclaimed Perception that things started to shift into a higher gear for the youngsters. This all-new Atelier Wen Ancestra, or Jiao in traditional Chinese, captures the spirit of the Hongshan Jade Dragon and mixes it with French watchmaking performance, for a unique take on the classical dress watch!
The whole idea behind Atelier Wen is to pair the best of traditional Chinese culture and craftsmanship with the appeal of mechanical watchmaking. Think handmade porcelain dials, hand-turned guilloché patterns and engraving, and so on. While the brand made its debut with Chinese calibres, it now shifts its attention, at least in terms of mechanics, to Europe. More specifically, France, as the new Ancestra, comes with a movement by Pequignet, but more on that in a bit.
The concept of the new Ancestra is a strong break from the rather original Perception, in looks at least. It still embraces traditional Chinese symbols, mythology and craftsmanship, yet combines them into a far more classical dress watch profile. The case is machined from 904L stainless steel, which is stronger and has a more vibrant shine than conventional 316L steel. It measures 38mm in diameter and is a relatively slim 11.3mm in height. The design is quite fresh, with an interesting detached lug construction that’s screwed to the caseband. The shape of the case and lug sections is inspired by the earliest depiction of a dragon in Chinese culture, the carved jade Zu Long dragons. The finishing looks rather impressive, with a mix of polished bevel and various brushed surfaces.
Moving to the dial reveals an incredible number of details. First and foremost is the hand-hammered fumé dial. The colour ranges from pale silver in the centre to deep cobalt on the outer edge. The dimpled texture is covered by multiple layers of Grand Feu enamel, created by the Kong Lingjun workshop, one of China’s most revered enamelling ateliers. Each dial is said to take up to 20 days from start to finish, with a 50% failure rate, so it’s far from an easy process! All the more kudos to Atelier Wen and the enamelling workshop for the stellar result!
To tell time, the Ancestra uses a pair of rhodium-plated leaf-shaped hour and minutes hands with a frosted spine and wide polished bevels. The hour markers are a mix of baguette-cut diamonds and Chinese calligraphy symbols. The finishing touches include a swirling minutes track inspired by border designs found in traditional Chinese artwork. Atelier Wen has mentioned there’s a Western Arabic alternative layout available if your Chinese is a touch rusty.
As mentioned earlier, Atelier Wen switches from its Chinese-made Peacock and Dandong calibres to one from France. Supplied by Pequignet, the calibre EPM03 is customised before being installed in the Ancestra. The automatic time-only movement runs at a rate of 28,800vph and has a generous power reserve of 65 hours. It’s regulated to run within an average deviation of +/-2 seconds per day, which is very impressive! That means it runs well within COSC parameters! The three-quarter bridge is decorated with a deeply micro-etched Chinese manuscript called Questions to Heaven. The 5N rose gold-plated rotor uses an efficient Pellaton winding system and repeats the decorative border design found on the dial. Finishing touches include a mirror-polished ratchet wheel and balance bridge.
The Ancestra comes on a taupe coloured grained calfskin leather strap with a hand-finished brushed and polished pin buckle. It’s not limited to a specific number per se, but from now you only have 7 days to put in your order, with deliveries scheduled for the second quarter of 2026. More variations will surely follow, but for now, this one is introduced at a price of USD 5,850 excluding VAT. That makes it quite a bit more expensive than the Porcelain Odyssey and the Perception, but you definitely get more in return!
I must say that I was already a fan of the Perception collection as it offers something fresh and original. Stepping away from traditional Western design codes and embracing ancient Chinese symbolism and craftsmanship is a bold yet rewarding move. Atelier Wen has shone a new light on Chinese culture and tradition with its precious collections, and continues to do so at a new and higher level with the Ancestra, or Jiao. And for that, I applaud them!
For more information, please visit AtelierWen.com.
