The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video)

Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked to a specific instrument found onboard a fighter jet or commercial airliner. In recent years, the brand has also branched out into slightly more laid-back and sometimes conceptual watchmaking, such as the BR-05 and BR X-series. This more experimental (hence the X in the name) collection started with the BR-X1 in 2014, followed by the BR-X2 Skeleton Tourbillon Micro-Rotor in 2018 and the BR-X5 in 2022. And now, it’s time for the BR-X3. 

More technical case construction

At first, the new Bell & Ross BR-X3 watches might look like slight evolutions of the brand’s all-time classic, the circle-in-a-square flight instrument known as the BR-03, or even its openworked version, the recently launched BR-03 Skeleton. And in a way, this isn’t entirely wrong. Yet, these new watches are part of the Experimental collection, and there are some notable differences. First and foremost, the case construction. Presented in two editions, the Black Titanium or the Blue Steel, the rounded square satin-finished and polished steel or micro-blasted grade 2 titanium case measures 41mm by 41mm. That puts it in line with the dimensions of the revamped BR-03 introduced in 2023, albeit fairly thicker at 13.3mm in total.

The circular bezel sits atop a blue coloured plinth on the steel model, and a black one on the titanium version. Then comes the horizontal case top, with the signature functional screws on the corners, before things take a slightly different direction.  Sandwiched between the top and bottom sections of the case is a round barrel for the dial and movement, with pillars on each corner. On the other end of the case, we see a typical B&R-style screw-down crown sandwiched between stout and angular guards in steel or in black-DLC coated titanium, depending on the version.

On the Black Titanium edition, everything between the top and bottom layers is… blackened, as you’d expect. On the steel version, only the pillars, in anodised aluminium, have been given a touch of blue. This interplay of shapes and colour gives the BR-X3 its own unique character within the BR universe, which is pretty neat. The rest of the case is classic for the brand, with short lugs, sapphire crystals on both sides and a comfortable 100m water-resistance.

A multi-layer dial

As with most of the watches in the Experimental collection, the Bell & Ross BR-X3 adds depth and complexity to the display. The dial is a three-layer construction, which brings back the signature X-shaped design that’s familiar to many of the BR-X models. The base of the dial is either matt black varnished or blue sunray varnished, and topped by a matte grey metallic or rhodium-plated structure framing two important indications: the date window at 3 o’clock with three visible numerals, and the power gauge at 9 o’clock, with its 3-day indicator and E (empty) and F (full) mentions.

This metallic structure also carries the applied markers, working together with the semi-openworked hands and applied 12 and 6 numerals, all filled generously with white Super-LumiNova X1 (green emission). The last layer of this complex and modern dial is an angled inner flange with minutes and seconds indications. The latter has cutouts on its periphery that frame the applied markers, a nice touch adding depth to the display.

A manufacture movement by Kenissi

Moving to the back side of the BR-X3, a clear (Blue Steel) or tinted (Black Titanium) sapphire crystal reveals the BR-Cal.323. This manufacture movement is made together with Kenissi, which is partially owned by Chanel, who also has a majority share in Bell & Ross. It relies on the same technical base as the movement found in the BR-X5, as well as watches from Tudor and Norqain.

This automatic movement runs at a rate of 28,800 vibrations/hour. It backs up the muscular looks of the BR-X3 with a sturdy 70 hours of power reserve, and is chronometer-certified by COSC. You can see a part of the running gear through a cut-out, and the balance wheel whizzing back and forth.

Thoughts, availability & price

All in all, the new BR-X3 is a bold step for Bell & Ross, combining its aviation-themed heritage with powerful watchmaking credentials thanks to the Kenissi movement, and an overall muscular look. Fitted to either a black or blue perforated rubber strap with a pin buckle, it retails for CHF 7,000 for the Blue Steel, or CHF 7,700 for the Black Titanium. That puts them at the top of the classic Bell & Ross range. Both editions are part of the permanent collection and will soon be available from the brand and its retailers.

For more details, please visit www.bellross.com.