Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches
Hands-on

The Lovely, Accessible Alpina Heritage Automatic

Travel back to the early/mid-20th century with a pair of stylish value propositions from a storied Swiss watchmaker.

| By Erik Slaven | 3 min read |

Sometimes simplicity is best, especially in the watch game, and Alpina proves that looking back at another era can be an aesthetic winner today. Many brands have vintage-inspired collections that pull from older, often historic models, so this is certainly nothing new. Alpina’s expanding Heritage collection, however, encapsulates the best of the brand with style, history and value that we always like to see. Born in the Interwar period between 1918 and 1939, the inspiration for the Heritage Automatic proves that some designs are truly timeless and also great for daily wear with modern touches.

Alpina goes back to 1883 when independent Swiss watchmaker Gottleib Hauser brought a group of fellow watchmakers together to share parts and innovations, which became the Alpina Swiss Watchmakers Corporation (members were known as Alpinists). Of course, the name is associated with mountains and specifically the Matterhorn mountain in Switzerland with one of the highest peaks in Europe. Its unique triangular form also inspired the brand’s logo. The watches were so well made that Alpina introduced the first international watch guarantee in 1926 that has since been adopted by virtually all major brands.  

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Both models share a polished stainless steel case that’s retro and versatile at 38mm in diameter. For reference, the case that inspired it was 25.7mm in diameter, so it satisfies contemporary tastes and is very comfortable on the wrist. At only 10.15mm in height, it also slips under a cuff for formal occasions. The AR crystal is sapphire, but has a raised box style that mimics older acrylic to continue the vintage-inspired theme. The threaded case back is solid with Alpina embossed in the centre. Water resistance is rated at 30 metres, which is appropriate for such a piece and common back in the day. A classy black leather strap with matched stitching and a pin buckle comes standard. 

Unique dial designs separate the pair and really capture the era between the 1920s and 1940s. The simpler of the two has a matte beige base with large Arabic numerals printed in black and a minute/seconds track that’s distorted by the box-shaped crystal. The second dial has a satin silver ring around the matte beige centre with Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock with long indices between, all printed in bronze and outlined in black. An outermost railroad track also shows retro distortions at angles. Both dials have dauphine hands with a blue PVD finish and Alpina’s original, vintage typeface. 

The watches are driven by the always reliable and cost effective Sellita SW200 that makes Alpina’s AL-520 calibre. This movement has a date complication, but these old-school models limit the dial to central hours, minutes and hacking seconds. There are 26 jewels, a beat rate of 28,800vph (4Hz) and a power reserve of 38 hours. The SW200 is a clone of the original ETA 2824.

The new Alpina Heritage Automatics retail for EUR 1,695 each, which is a bit high but not unreasonable for stylish, retro models from a historic, innovative Swiss brand. Less expensive Sellita watches can be found, but the overall package offered here is on target. For more information and to make a purchase, please visit Alpina’s website. 

https://monochrome-watches.com/alpina-heritage-automatic-vintage-inspired-1940s-watches-sector-dial-2024-hands-on-review-specs-price/

6 responses

  1. I would dig this watch had they not reversed the 9. Now it just looks like it’s six o’clock twice a day, and I can’t get over it.

    Shame. It’s a lovely watch. Wonder why they did that.

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  2. To be fair, they only reversed the 6. Which makes sense. If not, you’d be left with two 9’s.

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  3. How is the screwed back tightened.
    If it was a snap back it wouldn’t be off centre.

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