When it comes to ladies’ watches, we usually face the issue of a poor horological interest. Here, at Monochrome-Watches, we love mechanical, complicated and bold watches and that is something we usually don’t find in the majority of the timepieces dedicated to women only. This is the main reason why you won’t often read often about this kind of material here – and that’s also the reason why some ladies are moving to men’s watches. However, the one we’re about to introduce to you plays in a different league. It is a proper complicated watch, a proper bold creation and a proper URWERK, with a focus on ladies. Here is the URWERK UR-106 Lotus, the first ladies’ watch from the brand. Well, is it really that feminine? Let’s find out.
First, let’s focus on what is URWERK in this new UR-106 Lotus, what is known, what does meet with the actual DNA of the manufacture? Overall, we’re in front of a watch that purely resembles the other creations of Martin Frei. The shape of the case, with its large aperture at 6 revealing some parts of the movement, the ribbed casebands, the crown at 12, the integrated and articulated lugs… All of these elements can be found in other URWERK watches, like for instance the URWERK UR-105 TA Automatic, the URWERK UR-105M or the URWERK UR-210S Full Metal Jacket. The colours used for this UR-106 Lotus are also reminiscent of previous models. The first one, the Black Lotus, comes with a black PVD titanium and steel case and a dial with bright yellow accents (as we can find on the URWERK UR-210 AlTIN) and the second edition, the Lotus, comes in a metallic and silvered scheme (just like the UR-210 Full Metal Jacket). Design-wise, there’s no doubt to be had. These novelties are 100% URWERK and for anyone who knows a bit about the brand, he or she’ll recognize them in an instant.
Technically speaking, the UR-106 Lotus bears the revolving hour satellites that have become the essence of the brand – a complication that is featured in nearly all of the recent URWERK watches, including the ‘entry-level’ UR-105M or the über-complicated and massive UR-1001 Pocket Watch. The revolving hour satellites complication consist of 3 discs that rotates on them-selves, all attached to a central cage (the carrousel) that also rotates on 360 degrees. While an hour is indicated on the lower half of the dial, it makes a run from 0 to 60 on a track that indicates the minutes. The UR-106 Lotus also features a moon-phase indication, something that isn’t new either for URWERK, as one is featured on the UR-202. Some may argue that there is no dashboard panel on the caseback and that there is no winding efficiency control, however, for the rest, the main URWERK features are here.
Technically again, the URWERK UR-106 Lotus relies on a fully mechanical movement, finished with circular graining, shot peening, brushing and chamfered screw heads – like every other URWERK watches – with the extra-module that runs the satellites on the top. Again, no difference here between the ladies’ model and another model dedicated to men. The movement is automatic, very well finished and it boasts 48 hours of power reserve.
The cases of both editions of the UR-106 Lotus are made of stainless steel and titanium, with an extra-coating in PVD for the black version. While the other watches of the brand are usually quite massive, this one comes with slightly smaller dimensions (Width 35 mm, length 49,4 mm, height 14,45 mm), which you’ll admit, are very far from the usual 30mm to 35mm diameter of a classical ladies’ watch.
What really is different though? What makes this URWERK (which couldn’t be more URWERK) a watch that is dedicated to women? First of all, the name. As one of the most famous watch journalist – that also intend to be a lady named Suzanne Wong – mentioned here, the name is more feminine. While the other watches from the brand are named ‘Iron Knight‘, ‘Torpedo‘, ‘Cobra‘, ‘Full Metal Jacket‘, ‘Hammerhead‘, ‘Tarantula‘ or ‘White Shark‘, the URWERK UR-106 is named with more subtle designations: Lotus or Black Lotus – that, you’ll admit, is less military or aggressive than the rest of the collection. The Lotus name comes from the shape of the central carrousel, with a six-lobed flower at its midst. Well, let’s agree that it is a kind of modern and stylized version of a Lotus flower.
In fact, the main (and probably only) feminine sides of the URWERK UR-106 Lotus are the diamonds set on the bezel – whether it’s classical white diamonds on the bright edition or black diamonds on the black version – and the white alligator leather bracelet. Remove the diamonds from the bezel and you’ll probably have a very desirable men’s URWERK – especially for those looking for a smaller watch – and a watch that we wouldn’t mind to wear here at Monochrome-Watches. We wouldn’t be surprised to see the URWERK UR-106 Lotus strapped on the wrist of a few fancy men – especially the black edition.
How to conclude? Is the URWERK UR-106 Lotus a proper ladies’ watch? Not really. It’s a pure URWERK that bears some feminine qualities. Is it something that we personally like? Yes, a lot. Why women should wear terrible watches that only pop out because of the few diamonds that are set in the bezel…? They are totally allowed (and deeply encouraged) to love complicated, bold and unique creations from independent watchmakers too. In fact, this UR-106 could well be the most versatile watch of the entire collection. Both edition will be limited to 11 pieces and priced at 85.000 Swiss Francs. More details on URWERK.com.